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Tension (Gauge)

Tension (also known as Gauge in US patterns) refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch/cm, based on a specific yarn and needle size.

Getting the correct tension is essential for garments to come out true to size.

💡 Vintage tip: Many older patterns were based on tighter tension than today’s styles. Always swatch!

🇺🇸 US term: Gauge

🇬🇧 UK term: Tension

Wool

In vintage British patterns, wool often refers to any yarn, regardless of fiber. It doesn’t necessarily mean it’s made from sheep’s wool.

💡 Vintage tip: A pattern calling for “4-ply wool” may not be referring to fiber content — just the thickness/weight.

🇺🇸 US usage: “Yarn” is the general term.

🇬🇧 UK usage: “Wool” is used interchangeably with yarn.

4-Ply / DK / Aran

These are British yarn weight terms that differ slightly from modern US naming:

  • 4-Ply = US Fingering/Sport

  • Double Knitting (DK) = US Light Worsted

  • Aran = US Worsted

💡 Vintage tip: Always compare tension (gauge) rather than relying on yarn names when substituting.

Cast On

This is how you begin your knitting by creating the first row of stitches. Common vintage cast-on methods include the long tail and knitted-on cast.

💡 Vintage tip: Older patterns rarely specify which cast-on to use — choose one that matches the stretch and edge you want.

🇺🇸 & 🇬🇧 usage: Same terminology in both.